We are at the midway point of our first ‘ocean’ crossing. Elfin Cove, situated on the northwest corner of Chichagof Island, to Dutch Harbor, Unalaska Island, one of the Aleutian Islands on the outer end of the Alaska Peninsula. Just for scale - 1022 nautical miles – roughly the distance from Seattle to Santa Barbara. By car that would be a 24-hour drive. By R/V One Ocean, it’s a 6 to 8 day run unless the road is really bumpy.
Our pilot chart of the North Pacific Ocean (yes, Bob – we actually have some paper charts onboard) contains all sorts of interesting information about bodies of water everywhere in the world. These charts represent, in graphic form “averages obtained from data gathered over many years in meteorology and oceanography to aid the navigator in selecting the quickest and safest routes.” “Averages” being the key word in all of that.
Forecasts from various weather sources predicted a fairly calm crossing with a chance of favorable winds up to 20 knots. Beautiful calm sailing with some motoring during days one and two. Day three gave us a hint of more wind – swell developing from the southwest and clouds saying more of something might be moving our way. Day four confirmed our observations. By midday we were furling most of the headsail and setting the second reef in both the mizzen and main. Steep, short-period waves were riding regular swells of 3 – 4 feet. By sunset (10:30) those steep, angry-looking waves were breaking with the help of a steady 20 knot cold wind with frequent gusts of 30 – 35 and an occasional 40 knot gust just to keep us on guard. Wonderful to be able to ‘stand’ watch at our inside steering station in the pilot house. On several occasions the wave tops were much higher than the top of the pilot house.
With the help of the wind the tops of some of those waves went all the way over the deck and house top of our comfortable capsule.
In the midst of all the movement and wave mayhem Tess and Mike put a tasty dinner together. Beans and sausage were cooked in Mike’s durable Instapot. I mention ‘durable’ because from the aft cabin I heard a distinct crash and thud when one of the bigger waves crested and over-topped One Ocean. The pot, with contents inside made it from the countertop to the galley floor – contents contained but the pot now has a battle-scar and a story to tell. Dinner was warm and welcome!
The pilot chart for our position shows 20-percent chance of force 4 winds, 11 – 16 knots.
We were experiencing Force 7, “near gale, 28-33knots” most of the afternoon and night with Force 8, Gale 34 – 40, during the midnight watch. One Ocean was very wet on the outside and completely dry on the inside (thanks to all volunteers who made that happen!).
Crew watch shifts happened on schedule, some sleep was possible and good humor prevailed. I woke up this morning to the sound of Tess and Mike securing the boom, rolling up the jib and preparing to start the engine in the absence of wind! Our pilot charts say we should have light winds for the next few days, our weather apps indicate this may be true and best indication of all . . . Jenn has been rummaging around our cupboards to find all the ingredients for making banana bread.
This crossing has been the first real test of One Ocean and crew. We are learning what the boat likes and what little changes we can make so daily routines are more enjoyable. The upcoming (two days?) Dutch Harbor stop will be an important one for fuel and provisions before the next 600 nm run to Nome. Right now I’m happy to report all is well on the good ship One Ocean . . . and the banana bread smells delicious!
Ciao - Mark Schrader
