This morning I've muttered (mostly to myself) a dozen times that it's time to leave Peru and head south. I woke up wanting to be on the move rather than tied to a buoy a hundred yards or so from the Yacht Club Peruano. Part of my impatience to get going is purely from looking at the time and distance numbers to Southern Chile. The more significant reason stems from frustration over Peruvian entry, exit and fee requirements for visiting boats.
Peru requires all visiting yachts to report to the local maritime authority 48 hours prior to entry. We made the decision to use Lima as a convenient fuel stop 24 hours before changing our course. At that time we emailed and made a radio call to announce that decision. No response from Peru Naval Authority - then or for the next 24 hours! As we closed the coast we made contact with a very helpful person at the Yacht Club Peruano - the place where Ocean Watch and crew enjoyed their visit to Peru 15 years ago. I should also mention the rules state that each visiting yacht must hire an agent to handle ALL requirements, i.e. customs, immigration, health and inspection. Check! Jenn found a recommendation for an agent and we secured their services.
The agent service included arranging and accompanying government officials from a number of different departments to One Ocean for on site inspections and interviews. Apparently, since we didn't/couldn't make contact 48 hours in advance our arrival was categorized as an "emergency" arrival. The significance of that classification wasn't clear to any of us. A helpful caution from the Yacht Club's Commodore mentioned the Club staff would help facilitate our relationship with the agent and officials in order to make sure certain tariffs wouldn't be over charged. Yup, caution noted.
We secured ourselves to an available moorage buoy and made all of the necessary calls. Over the next 18 hours we were visited by a variety of uniformed officials, accompanied by a representative from 'our' agency. Two notable visits were middle of the night meetings - one from a health department official wanting to make sure we had a suitable medical kit, and a second later visit from one wanting to check on our fuel supply - to confirm our reason for stopping in Lima was, in fact, to purchase fuel. None of the agents asked if we had Covid, leprosy or anything communicable. No one asked about drugs, firearms, pets, liquor or plans to overthrow the government. None asked if the Captain was competent, demented or missing. All good. Each official visit was efficient and polite.
Some 30 hours after our arrival all entry procedures were completed. We were officially allowed to leave the boat and step foot on Peruvian soil. The shore routine by now is pretty well rehearsed. Fuel arranging, laundry services found, grocery/supply options explored and eating anywhere someone else was cooking are high on the list. 15 years ago the area around the Yacht Club was strictly a 'no go alone' area - commercial, industrial and according to locals - dangerous! It is now a revitalized, tree lined, neat and tidy part of the city. Parks, clubs, restaurants and very clean beach areas have transformed the place. A natural bird sanctuary is home to thousands of seabirds. A dog park, complete with an obstacle course and training area shares some of the open space. People look happy and healthy - so do the dogs!
During the Ocean Watch visit we walked outside of the security-fenced yacht club property into a mostly industrial neighborhood. Each time we walked outside the gate we were warned not to walk alone and never, never wander anywhere after dark. David Thoreson snapped an image of what we 'awarded' then as the most polluted beach experienced during the entire '09-10' voyage. Piles of plastic debris, dead and decaying animals, fish remains, etc.etc on a beach directly in front of the Peru Naval Academy buildings. Truly a disturbing mess.
We took the same walk this time and found a pristine waterfront scene complete with beach-goers, food stands and benches . . . and not one shred of garbage or debris of any sort. The entire neighborhood has been revitalized. We gave one of our books to our Peruano Yacht Club host, Gonzalo Ravago, and showed him the image from 16 years ago. He gave full credit to the mayor and the community leaders for their foresight and work in making the area a friendly and vibrant place. Well done!
Our host was apologetic regarding the cost suffered by any foreign yacht visiting their beautiful country. The Club made a point of not charging for any of their services - or for a five-star lunch for us - and they were instrumental in negotiating a reduction of some of the government fees.
We would like to return for another visit on our way north but that will be dependent on weather, timing and yes, expense! We may have an opportunity to make a presentation of our journey to the community. If that invitation from the Peruvian Navy materializes then perhaps the fees will be waived.
Valparaiso is now the destination, roughly 1,000nm south of our current position. We are motoring with 2kts of wind, fog and a long, gentle rolling swell. Schools of tuna splash around the boat. All seem content feeding far away from what we thought were tasty looking lures. My turn for making dinner tonight, hoping for fish.